Friday, September 23, 2011

The Profiles

Across the world, Peace Corps volunteers have many different choices for living arrangements while at their permanent sites. Some are mandatory situations, some voluntary, and a lot are a mix of both. Azerbaijan is set up with a different mix of accommodations. While going through training for the first three months in a cluster city, everybody is required to live in host families. Even our Azerbaijani language and cultural facilitators move out of their home towns across the country to come to the hub city and live with host families so they are only a few short blocks away from our never ending questions and needs. Once training is over, the bright new group of “Community Developers” make their way into the big, bad world of permanent sites. For the first four months PCV’s in Azerbaijan are required to again live with host families which are pre-selected by Peace Corps Azerbaijan. Afterwards, the volunteers can either re-negotiate their contract with their families, move to a new family, or find independent housing within their community.

Most volunteers move to their own housing at least by the time summer rolls around. But as I’ve never been one to always follow the pack, I have elected to stay with my host family. As with all things in life (except for Swedish fish in which not a bad word can be uttered), there are ups and downs that come with this.

My short list of ups of being with my host family:
*It is NEVER boring
*There is always food if I don’t want to cook for myself
*There is always (running) water to cook and clean with and fresh drinking water
*Somebody else burns my garbage
*We have a huge (clean) bathroom and western toilet

My short list of downs of being with my host family:
*I live with seven adults and two children
*NO privacy (see aforementioned bullet)
*I cannot wear what I’d like to ideally be wearing when I want (ex: It is 115 degrees and you are sweating every ounce of water out of you. Ideal outfit: tank top and shorts)
*Seven different comments on what you cook, wear, eat, and clean every day
*Being a live-in nanny in a world that only disciplines children by slapping them in the face but for the most part has a give-in at all times child rearing approach.

No matter what though, I love my host family. Sometimes they annoy me until I want to scream. But usually a few hours later I am really bored in my room and go hang out in the kitchen with them. Which is exactly what I think of as a family unit anyway. So who does this rockstar group consist of?

The Isganderovs:
Niman Dayi (Dayi actually means ‘Uncle’ but it is a title of respect – I’ve never once just called him Niman)

From the multiple times I have asked, the most I have gotten out of what my host father used to do is that he worked in an office. Now, he is a pensioner, meaning he collects 85 manat each month from the government. He is approximately 58, give or take a few years, and spends most of his days helping around the house, going to the city to do the bazaar shopping (even though only women cook in AZ, almost always, only the men do the food shopping), and watching a lot of Azerbaijani news.

Yagana Xala (Again, Xala means ‘Aunt’ – When I first came and didn’t know what to call my host parents – I tried out “Mama” once and knew it was way too weird)

My host mother is a village raised woman. She spends most of her days helping with the manual labor in the yard and her sons’ gardens. I have seen her lift things I wouldn’t not have been able to budge, cut the heads off of a lot of animals, and out eat my host dad. She is also approximately 58 years old, is a retired book keeper (now collects pension), has no upper teeth, and makes the best darn Plov (the Azerbaijan National Meal) this side of the Kur River.

Nariman

Nariman is a 31 year old worker. He is employed down the road at the village doctor’s house to do grounds upkeep. He also has about ten to 15 sheep and a huge garden with a tomato greenhouse, pumpkins, cherry plum trees, watermelon, potatoes, and persimmon trees. I’m not sure why exactly the garden/field is “his” since Yagana Xala works there every day and my other host brother and dad help out, but that is what everyone calls it. He recently just got married, and him and his new wife are currently living at our house until they build their own in a few years.



Ibrahim
Ibram is my 27 year old host brother.
He is unemployed, but seems to keep busy enough around the house. He has two cows and two horses and helps out with Nariman’s sheep. He is married with two children, and as the youngest son of the family, is required culturally to live with his parents in their house and take care of them until their eventual passing. In the winter he makes money by cutting down trees in the village and selling the wood to neighbors. In the summer he is gone a lot for what I think is gathering hay and oats for the animals.





Gunay
Gunay is Ibram’s 27 year old wife and my best Azerbaijani friend. She is a history teacher at the our village school, and a proud mother of a three year old and one and a half year old. I am not sure I have ever met someone who works harder than this lady. If she isn’t at her 12-15 hours a week at school, she is cleaning up after all of us at the house, or cooking for the mass amounts of people always milling about. I thought perhaps with Nariman’s new wife in the house, Gunay would get a break and work a little less, but she doesn’t like to sit around. So she works just as hard, and cleans even more.




Ilahe
Ilahe is Nariman’s 26 year old wife. She used to be a hair dresser at a salon in Goychay, but has not worked since the wedding in June. She comes from a family of five in the city, and I think the big family here added to living in the village is a big overwhelming at times for her. Technically the lowest on the totem pole (except for me – and sometimes I’m still considered a guest and get bumped up), she gets bossed around quite a bit. But, it is the life of a new bride in Azerbaijan. And both her and Gunay have told me on many separate occasions that my host dad and mom are the nicest in-laws they have every known and have never had a problem with them.


Rahim
Rahim is three years old and runs the show at our house. I thought my Azerbaijani was really bad last winter (it was) , but it really has been this summer where both of our language abilities have sky rocketed. When he doesn’t get what he wants, and sometimes even when he does, Rahim can be an ill-behaved child. He can scream really loud, throw, kick, bite, and hit until the sun goes down. But, he loves hearing and telling stories about wolves, giggles and giggles and giggles, can count to five in English, and him and I brush our teeth every night. This September he started attending pre-school, which keeps him busy from about nine in the morning until four in the afternoon.

Gulay
Gulay and I are besties. She will turn two at the end of January. When I first got here, she couldn’t walk, didn’t have teeth, couldn’t point or wave or blow a kiss, or say any words at all. Now she says mom, dad, look, come, and a garbled form of “I want”, is walking, albeit with bowlegs, and is developing quite the personality. If I am at home, usually I am watching Gulay. Even if her mother is at home, Gulay is usually trying to make a break for the neighbors or leaning far enough off the porch to fall off.

Our schedules have become pretty routine now. My host dad, mom, and two brothers eat their usual bowl of bread with hot milk and sugar over it in the morning, then leave to meander in and out throughout the entire day to drink tea between working in the garden, walking the sheep and cows to different pastures, collecting hay and wood for winter, collecting, selling, or canning vegetables, and cleaning up our yard. Gunay milks the cows in the morning, gets breakfast ready for everyone, goes to school, comes home and cleans up lunch, cleans the house in the afternoon, washes and irons everybody’s clothes, and takes care of Gulay in the afternoon. Ilahe makes lunch and supper for the family and helps out with the children if I am at school when Gunay is.
While people work really hard in Azerbaijan, lounging time is appreciated as well. Most nights when the sun is down, everyone watches television together until they go to bed. During the summer when the heat was unbearable and no one could move from one p.m. until four or five, we would just lay around on the porch, reading books and taking naps. It is starting to get dark a lot sooner now, which means soon enough it’ll be too cold to be outside. That means a lot more family time huddled around the wood burning stove in the one warm room in the winter. Maybe my perspective will be less upbeat when that time comes upon us. But I’ll venture to guess that I’m still going to like it a lot anyway.

Sunday, September 4, 2011

What Keeps Me Happy Every Day?

The Yoga Deck: A hand me down from a PCV who headed back to America. I still haven’t found a yoga video I liked, but this little deck is handy. I pick out about eight different poses each day at random and have my own little session.


“Zero at the Bone: The Playboy, the Prostitute, and the Murder of Bobby Greenlease” by John Heidenry. The true crime novel sent from America (thanks Dad!) which I can’t seem to put down.

Chewable Pepto Bismals : Is there much more to say about this? I hear these are as equally vital upon returning to America and trying to readjust to processed food.

Contacts: Peace Corps suggests not bringing contact lenses when going to countries you serve in. Some Peace Corps countries, however, are considered less of a hazard and you are given more of a “bring at your own risk” warning. Azerbaijan is a “BAYOR” country. My advice: BRING YOUR CONTACTS. It is dusty here, and I have had times where I wished I was wearing my glasses, but overall, these were one of the best items I brought with me to AZ. Solution can only be bought in Baku and is really expensive, but it is worth it.

Single Serve Packets: Anytime other PCV’s are giving away packets, I swarm the area. Instant coffee, Crystal Lite, and Benefibers are gold mines. I also try and scoop up Taco Seasonings, Chili powder, and ranch mixes to spice up my usual lentil/rice dinners.

Lip Balm: Burts Bees and Chapstick, ‘nuff said.

Coffee: I grew up in a coffee drinking family. I worked at Starbucks for three years. I think my blood needs it to be healthy. For sure my sanity does. And I am happier person when I have coffee in the morning. So to my suppliers in America: Thank you. You are making the world a better place by sending me coffee.

Dental Hygiene: Dental Hygiene is virtually non-existent here. It is also popular to get gold teeth, so even if you have only lost a tooth or two to decay, it is really noticeable. So many of the young children have golden teeth, or missing teeth, or black, rotten teeth by the time they graduate high school. It makes me appreciate our education system and my parents for instilling good habits when we were young.

Blogs: I recently added links to a couple blogs that I like to browse when online. I think blogs are really interesting media outlets. The world of blogs reminds me a giant store where are the clothes are in boxes you have to sift through. Usually it is a large task and completely overwhelming, but when you find something good, it is always worth it. When I really have a lot of time on my hands I like to shamelessly look through other Peace Corps volunteer blogs at Peace Corps Journals. I think this organization is starting to be addicting. Usually, though, I check out Janae and Josh's blogs before I log off. Josh recently added a new tab (sub blog?) called Teaching for Leaders. It has good tips for individuals or groups about improving leadership skills and abilities. Check it out.

Back to School

With school starting in less than a fortnight, I am trying to wrap my head around work mode again. I have been keeping busy being on the Program and Advisory Training Committee as the TEFL sector representative for my group. I also have been floating a hundred ideas around in my head to see which ones I can try and work out for this upcoming school year. Next week I am going to pop into school and track down my two counterparts and see if I can meet with them about what this next semester will look like. School starts the 15th of September in Azerbaijan for every primary, secondary, and almost every higher education institute in the country every single year.
The teachers start going approximately two weeks early to sign papers and get the books ready for the year. I asked my host sister-in-law what they exactly did, and she said they really do nothing, but the ministry requires them to go. Interesting. Although, absolutely nothing is computerized in the school systems, so every grade book, register, schedule, attendance record, and so forth is written in blue or black ink in large, leather bound books. Officials from the Ministry make surprise check-ups throughout the year to ensure they are being filled out correctly, and at the end of the year, they are sent in (I think) to be checked. Nevertheless, this is an extremely time consuming process. The actual schedule of hours and classes will be re-written in pencil multiple times before being complete sometime in late October or November. Until then, I most likely will not know which classes I actually have each day until then.
I am excited to get back into school mode again (like most Americans, I like routines and schedules). I will start clubs again after a week or so. This year I am trying to focus less on English and more on life skills. I was asked to guest write for my high school newspaper again, and am hoping to contact the teacher from Nebraska with whom I am paired up with in the World Wise School program to promote exchange between school students from America and Peace Corps volunteers across the world. I am still planning on throwing a raging Halloween party at school dependent on if my new school director likes my projects-or me. I am sure I will continue to tutor one of my host cousins in English. Lately, we have just been playing cards (Crazy 8’s, Spoons, Go Fish, and B.S. which I have renamed “I don’t believe you”) and drawing pictures. I also need to start tutoring my host sister-in-law after realizing this summer that while I can understand her broken English from living with her, no one else can. I have started getting back into running at night since it has slightly cooled down after seven p.m. and doing yoga in the mornings.
One of my goals for this semester is to be better at updating my blog. I think sometimes it is easy to get into routines here and feel that a lot of what I am doing is just normal day to day uninteresting stuff. The 23rd will mark my first year of being in-country and I know I have glossed over a lot of what has happened these past twelve months. I am going to try remembering the strange differences between the Azerbaijani and American school systems (no set schedule until November!), the cultural faux pas I continue to make (I never remember to only set the bread upright), and what goes on in the long days of the village. I am asking for a little help though. Is there anything particular you would like to hear about? Any questions about PCV life, the country, culture, schools, language, family, my recent obsessions (Rufus Wainwright, fig jam, Mad Men), language blunders (apparently the word “fool” which my host mom calls everything is actually a really bad word and I should not have said it when trying to translate the name of a card game to a ten year old guest), book recommendations, or whatever else tickles your fancy? Send me an email or leave a comment.